A stone's throw from Houhai lake, just north-west of the Forbidden City, is Qian Gan 5, one of Beijing's few traditional courtyard houses (siheyuan) open to the public.

A stone's throw from Houhai lake, in Beijing's north-west, the No. 5 at Qian Gan alley houses the residence of the eponymous Qi family. Little known to tourists, Qian Gan 5 has a history of over 300 years and is one of the few traditional courtyard houses of Ming and Qing style open to the public.

One thing is sure though, the place isn't easy to find. After twists and turns in narrow streets, you can finally find Qian Gan 5. Nothing distinguishes it any of the other private properties surrounding it except from the two bird cages suspended on both sides of the door and a sign outlining the family's history.

Once you enter and pay the 20RMB entry fee, the visit can begin:  right in front of you, you will find a bamboo curtain and a large basin filled with goldfish, as well as a heavy wooden horse-drawn carriage. "This used to transport the girls. It was that day's BMW," jokes one of two English-speaking guides. From there on, you can only expect to see wealth.

Wealth initially present in the red and green corridor that zigzags that brings you through the four wings of the residence that surround a small courtyard. The guide leads the few tourists into the first room and shows a wooden model of the property from its glory days. Completely renovated in 2004, the remains cover 600 m² and have not been inhabited for the past five years except for a few parts that contain a few offices closed to the public.

The architecture was designed entirely to follow Chinese symbolism. "You entered through the south-east door along with the wind blowing in good luck," says the young Chinese guide showing the model. "The wing closest to you was reserved for men. The unmarried girls lived on the other side of this second entry parallel to the first and could not cross it," she says.

An Enchanting setting

Three entire walls are covered with black and white pictures, all necessary to immortalize M. Qi, a Chinese scientist and the first owner of the residence, his two wives, one of which is none other than the niece of Pu Yi, last Qing emperor, fifteen children and their progeny. All of this discovery is done very fast.

Next stop is a small rectangular room which hosts a large dark wooden desk on which are laid instruments of calligraphy, followed by a newly remodeled bathroom adjacent to the study room. Again, the symbolism is everywhere. "This black wooden cabinet is decorated with four types of plants dear to the Chinese: plum blossoms, bamboo, chrysanthemums and orchids. They all bring good luck" says the guide. It's the same thing for the bedroom where you can find a large canopy bed. "The sheets are red, the symbol of happiness," she insists. While the floors, walls and ceiling are all original, none of the furniture is vintage, they are just very good reproductions of Ming and Qing dynasties models.

Once the boys' room, the third wing has been turned into a meeting room with a few unpretentious tables and chairs. The courtyard is similarly very simple: a single tree was planted along which a grenadier edge its first red flowers for happiness. "The fruits provide prosperity," the guide says before showing some green turtles that are scrambling in a container. "In Chinese, ‘turtle' is called ‘wugui'. The homophone for the word ‘without ghosts', basically to chase away evil spirits," she concludes before going host the next couple of tourists.

Finally, the last building acts as a tea and coffee room in the afternoon and dining room in the evening. The menu is in the same spirit than the residence, very familial. It changes depending on the mood of cooks. At the closing of the house to the public, the serenity of the house resumes and is available for a privileged few. "It is possible to reserve the residence for private receptions, for as many people as you like," says the second older guide. This is the opportunity to discover the lifestyle and authentic splendor of the past in a delightful setting.

Practical Information:
Qian Gan 5: Open daily from 8 AM to 7 PM
Admission: 20RMB. 5 Qian Gan Hutong, west of Lake Qianhai, Shichahai, Xicheng district.   西城区什刹海千竿胡同5号.
Tel: 010.66.18.02.65. Website: www.qiangan5.com

Text: Aurélie Palancher
Photos: Wang Zhuo
June 2008