Located at the edge of the Houhai lake, the old residence of Song Qingling is one of the prettiest residences and one of best restored of Beijing.

"The Country's Treasury" needed nothing less than a palace. That is what the ex-Chinese Prime Minister Zhou Enlai had to say when he offered to Song Qingling a residence in Beijing. Open to the public since 1982, the place is a haven of peace in which the wife of the revolutionist Sun-Yatsen, vice-president and honorary president of China, lived from 1963 to 1981.

From the 17th century, this court house housed politicians, scholars and other nobles. Until Prince Zaifeng or Prince Chun, the father of Pu Yi, the last emperor of the Qing dynasty, established his quarters in the property. After the founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, leaders of the government of the day wanted to build a residence for Song Qingling. Zhou Enlai chose this house on Houhai lake and had it renovated.

Once you cross the two large wooden doors, the tranquility of the residence is striking. Conifers and willows surround the central lane. While on the left, water splashes on a rock garden dominated by a kiosk. Further down, the branches of a vine with a few green buds wrap around a pergola. The plant dating back to the early years of the founding of the People's Republic of China was replanted when Song Qingling moved in the place.

In one corner, a panel promotes the Olympics somewhat deteriorates the harmony of the house. But it's quickly forgotten at the sight of a dovecote which sits by the first showroom. Your glance initially lands on a large wool-embroidered painting where poses Sun Yat-Sen, in Western costume and cane in hand, and a gloved Song Qingling, hat on her head and in brown attire.  

A small jewel

Here and there are souvenirs, a straw hat with crushed edges, a pistol, a seal, a telescope and the watch of Dr. Sun. You will also find the diploma of the American College for Women of Song Qingling. Further on, there are her mother's wedding gifts, the photographs with her sisters, the letters, the documents and other articles related to the youth of this Shanghai native born in 1893. The English translation of the description is flawless despite some omissions.

Another room focuses more on the political career of Song Qingling, appropriately, a carved bust thrones in the middle of it. The room showcases her traditional Chinese dresses (qipao) worn in important events, and her involvement with orphans. In another wing on the floor, an old clock tells the time of Song Qingling's death to the minute. Her office and its vast library, her bedroom and her kitchen have been reconstituted with objects and furniture.

The one disappointment during the visit was that many parts were closed to the public and the building houses administrative offices which seem out of place in this monument. Outside, the garage is being renovated without a clear reopening date. Located above, access to "Tingyu Pavilion" where you can listen to the rain fall was also prohibited. But these shortcomings are offset by the greenhouse overcrowded by tropical plants, the fan-shaped kiosk overlooking the Houhai lake, and dozens of cherry trees, apple trees and lilac which perfume the place making the house a small jewel well worth the detour.

Practical Information:
Former residence of Song Qingling (宋庆龄故居): Open daily from 9AM to 5:30PM (Summer: April 1^st to October 31^st; tickets sold until 5PM) and 9AM to 4:30PM (Winter: November 1^st to March 31^st; tickets sold until 4PM). Prices: 20RMB (5RMB for schoolchildren and college students). 46 Houhai Beiyan, Xicheng District.后海北沿46号. Tel: 010.64.04.42.05

Text: Aurélie Palancher
Photos: Wang Zhuo
May 2008