Open since the 1^st of October 2007, The Roadhouse is a restaurant at the foot of the Mutianyu section of the Great Wall, about an hour from Beijing. The eatery revisits the local cuisine, giving it back its sense of nobility.

The Great Wall is not renowned for the quality and cleanliness of its local restaurants. Often too fat and uninteresting, their dishes don't deserve to be mentioned. However, a two minute drive from Mutianyu will get you to The Roadhouse, open since October 1^st 2007, it serves simple and tasty rustic cuisine in a nice setting that will make you want to stay until nightfall.

In the village of Mutianyu, at the turn of a bend, The Roadhouse stands tall in black, gray brick and glass. Large bay windows flood diffused light into the restaurant. These overlook the Great Wall towering at the top of hills dotted with centenarian pines. The establishment comes in the same monochrome tones than the facade. The walls are cement gray and are brightened up by colorful paintings of horses and bullfights signed by a local artist, a banker in his spare time ...

From the ceiling panels to the shelves and lamps, there is so much black that you feel like you are in an old restored warehouse. Furthermore, the restaurant is very simple in design. To the right, you will find a small pleasant room with a fireplace and a counter surrounded by wooden stools able to accommodate a dozen people. On the other side , the vast illuminated room is easily suited for large groups. Outside, you'll find two concealed terraces embellished with rocky stones, a pond filled with trout and barbecues. Right alongside, there is an orchard and flowers are about to sprout. 

An authentic local cuisine

But whether you are a couple, a family, hikers on a tight budget or wealthy entrepreneurs, everyone is in the same boat: everyone eats and drinks out of aluminum dishes that people from the countryside use. And you won't help but smile at the sight of the flowered red tablecloths that cover the tables, the same that typical roadside Chinese restaurants use. 

Continuing with the theme of simplicity, the unpretentious laminated menu has two pages, one in English, one in Chinese. Each ingredient comes is produced locally and carefully prepared by an Indian chief who, according to the advice of villagers, tried to reproduce as faithfully as possible the authenticity of the local cuisine. A gamble he succeeded in achieving. Also served in aluminum plates, you will devour the dishes without hesitation, starting with Mutianyu almonds coming straight from the hot stove (29RMB). The name speaks for itself.

By contrast, the evocation of mouthfuls fried pork fillings (19RMB) may not seem as appetizing, but you would be wrong. Golden and crispy, they are light and offer a most enjoyable snack. Just like the assorted crudités, whose colors are more vivid than those found in the city. The cumin rainbow trout (66 RMB per fish) is the specialty of the restaurant, which breeds them in its own pools. The flesh is tender and fragrant. It is also possible to accompany the dish with a fish soup (12RMB).

The cold beef ganbian (32RMB) will entice the more recalcitrant with its spicy taste. If you don't  feel like the rice is for you, opt for the chaobing (29RMB), strips of sautéed patties with vegetables. With spring just around the corner, The Roadhouse is planning, starting March 29, to host blues groups during the evenings to go alongside some grilled food and washed down with some draught beer. A good way to enjoy a taste of the holidays in the countryside just an hour from Beijing.

The Roadhouse (大路馆儿): Open daily from 11 AM to 3 PM in the winter (closed on Thursdays) and 10 AM to 6 PM the rest of the year (closed on Thursdays) and up to 7PM during weekends. Closed in February. Mutianyu Village, Huairou District.慕田峪村怀柔区. Tel: 010-6162-6506

Text: Aurélie Palancher                                                                                     
Photos: Wang Zhuo
March 2008