In one bite

On the second floor, the dark wooden beams harmonize large poles covered with rope and old Chinese newspapers. Lacquered ducks hang for all to see in another glass kitchen. In the middle of the table, you can find a richly illustrated menu heavily loaded with seafood, meat and the list of dim sum. Dishes are within the reach of all budgets. But portions, are far from being generous. Served in smoldering bamboo vegetable steamers, the four translucent shrimp ravioli (13.8 RMB) are swallowed faster than they were served, and the staff don't  know who to serve next!

The slow service continues throughout the meal. A disappointment that somewhat spoils the taste of pork and shrimp bites (four  for 8.8 RMB). Even the crisp and puff of pastry and the softness of egg tarts (8.8 RMB for two) are unable to overcome this feeling of dissatisfaction. All this is happening while an auction of Chinese calligraphy takes place.

 The smile is barely retrieved after eating Saint-Jacques Australian scallops with golden melon (58.8 RMB). Although the shellfish of this brand new dish is both soft and strong, just like the slices of melon, the accompanying brownish sauce is too salty. The Chaozhou-style braised fish (58RMB the 500 grams) is presented in an original way, in a metal fish-shaped dish resting on an oval stove. Unfortunately, the type of cooking fuel used is toxic and escapes from the sides of the stove and its temperature is impossible to control.

The end result makes for the white-fleshed fish to be overcooked, although the small finely cut vegetables heighten the taste. The chopsticks, no longer useful, are replaced by a spoon. A frustration offset by a wide-ranging selection of drinks and fresh fruit juices, like the coconut and carrot juice (12RMB) or the pumpkin juice. For the more adventurous of you, try the coke or soda with scoops of ice cream (10RMB).

Jin Ding Xuan (金鼎轩): Open 24 hours daily. 77 Heping Xijie (North of the Yong He Gong Bridge).和平里西街77号(雍和宫桥北). Tel: 010-6429-6888

Text: Aurélie Palancher
Photos: Wang Zhuo
February 2008