Created in 2001, Beijing Hikers run weekly hiking trips around the Beijing surroundings. Founded by Gary and Huilin Pinnegar, both experienced hikers, this club enables people to discover the city from a new angle.
Hiking in winter in Beijing. Very few people would come up with an idea like that, especially as the theme of the hike on the 1st December was "Prove Your Loyalty" - enough to send shivers down your spine. Nevertheless, at 8.30am, ten people were present outside the Lido Hotel. Their destination, an unrestored section of the Great Wall, in the eastern district of Pinggu.
Today, even though most respondents are foreigners, the Chinese that have turned up all speak very good English. The last arrivals have to wait for a bit. Finally, the bus can start. After a brief welcome from Vicky, the guide for today, she explains the days plan. She passes round a map of the planed route, as well as illustrating the points of interest on the way.
After driving for two hours, the group arrives at the foothills of the mountains, and the hike can begin. The chosen route is varied. Small, unpaved roads, lead onto steep rocky paths. The weather is clear, and the sky is a beautiful blue. The air isn't as dry as was imagined. Despite the mercury dipping to only 5°C, the sun and the rhythm of the walk allows us to remove our coats and hats as we go.
An hour and a half later, the hikers reach the summit. Covered with brambles and shrubs, the Great Wall stands only a metre high, and blocks us from advancing any further. "We have arrived at our destination - an old section of the Great Wall" proffers the guide, who then explains why the reason for the name of the hike. "During the war, the Japanese forced the villages to demolish this part of the wall, and neighboring walls as well, then to carry to the stone and brinks down to the bottom of the wall to prove their loyalty", she explains. You can well imagine that the wall used to be a lot taller at the time.
In any case, the location is ideal for lunch, the view over the surrounding mountains is amazing. Everyone takes out their sandwich and their drink. In spite of the wondrous landscape, everyone wolfs down their lunch. The wind at the summit and the lack of activity begin to make themselves felt.
During the descent, Vicky momentarily losses her way. The path was covered with weeds and shrubbery, so it is hard for even the most accomplished of guides. "Over the past ten years, paved roads have replaced the network of paths that previously ran between the villages. However, no body maintains the paths except for the walkers who pass by," notes the guide.
Indeed, during the hike, we didn't see hide nor hair of any villagers, just the occasional abandoned house towards the end of the route. A dog and a couple of chickens scrabbling around a farmyard are the only signs of life. "Most people left these villages due to the pressure of land developers who were very keen to develop the local infrastructure. Others left because the wells and rivers were running dry in the area," confides the guide.
Beijing Hikers walks generally end up in a small Chinese restaurant, where everyone can enjoy a light meal, or a cup of tea, however, this time we end up in a rustic cafe. On the menu is simple Chinese cusine, tea, coffee and cakes to help the hikers warn themselves up. Everyone reminisces about the day's hike, and even about what'll be happening next week.
Useful Information:
Beijing Hikers: Information and Reservations: Huijie 139-1002-5516 and Vicky 138-1016-5056
Site: http://www.beijinghikers.com
Beijing Hikers also offers tailor made hikes for small groups.
Text: Edouard Beauchemin
Photos: Lucie Wang
December 2007