Located on the first floor of The Regent in Wangfujing, Daccopo offers delicious and popular Italian cuisine in very un-Italian surroundings. It's a great choice for a romantic dinner.
The first time you step in Daccapo, nothing will remind you of Italy. Not the elegant contemporary décor and subtle lighting, nor the English and Chinese menus. The ambiance is, however, romantic and welcoming.
The menu, just like the tablecloths and napkins, is pure white, and offers a typical selection of Italian cuisine: antipasti, soups, entrées, pizza, pasta, main dishes and desserts.
However, here at Daccapo, they don't call them fancy names, they just list the main ingredients. Simple and elegant.
Once you see the menu, you'll be in a dilemma - everything is just so appetizing. Whether it's the 65 RMB cappuccino of wood mushrooms and crunchy pancetta, the fresh water trout with a ravioli of leeks, and truffle mousse, the 150 RMB crab and mushrooms, or the spinach, ricotta, almond and tomato tortellini.
From the start of dinner, the mood is set - Daccapo is both original and sophisticated. The ornate and heavy cutlery, pretty but awkward to use, is arranged around the plate. Simple and sticklike amuse-gueules are arranged in a glass nearby.
Before the arrival of the carpaccio of beef with lemon, a square plate of pepper, vinaigrette, some leaves of rocket and shavings of parmesan cheese is presented. The lemon and seasoning accompany the first bite of the perfectly cooked and finely sliced beef perfectly. With the second bite, the flavour fades and the beef looses the initial taste. 
However, the parmesan and the accompanying rocket leaves fully restore the lost flavour of the carpaccio. A sip of Rosso di Montalcino 1994 completes the moment.
The glass of wine drained, a waitress dressed in black and white scurries up to refill the glass, unfortunately spilling a few drops on the tablecloth. Never mind. In a matter of seconds, the second course arrives, and is just as plentiful as the first.
The lamb chop, grilled with pecorino and thyme, and served with olive purée, artichokes and caramelized garlic, is mouthwatering. The small vegetables are crisp and served with a slightly sweet brown sauce. The lamb is cooked to perfection, crisp on the outside, and tender in the middle.
The generosity of the main courses doesn't leave you much space for dessert, even if you are tempted by the 70 RMB ice cream tiramisu, dusted with chocolate and hazelnuts, the 65 RMB rum baba with strawberries and white chocolate ice cream, or the 95 RMB nut risotto with Chianti and pears.
Daccapo: Open daily from noon until 2.30pm and 6pm until 10pm. 2nd Floor, The Regent Beijing, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District. 东城区金宝街99号北京丽晶酒店2层. Tel : 010-8522-1789.
Text and photos : Aurélie Palancher
October 2007