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  Friday 5 december 2008   09:59
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Beijing - China

La Taverne, simple, yet satisfying French cuisine

Having opened at the beginning of September opposite the French Cultural Centre in Beijing, La Taverne is filling the gap left by Le Café de la Poste.  Let's meet the director, Christophe Rovan.

Carte de MenuFrench to the very end, La Taverne just couldn't do any better.  A trio of French restaurateurs, who are also the brains behind many restaurants in the Capital including Le Café de la Poste, finally opened La Taverne at the beginning of September after a long effort.  The previous owners of La Taverne were Chinese, and the restaurant, Far Away, offered Irish food and then Breton crêpes.

In March 2006, Armand Lafare, one of the Le Café de la Poste trio, and one of the two chefs in the group, took the reigns, and thought about offering something more Mediterranean instead.  This would have worked well during the day, but not at night.  The Chinese owners sent out an SOS.  The trio responded with the idea of "the ambience of a rustic inn, a unique menu, and simple good French cooking". 

Thankfully, the idea paid off.  In front of the restaurant, the secluded terrace is ideal for dining or for a drink.  The tables are covered with red and white chequered tablecloths, wicker baskets hang from wooden beams, old posters hang on the walls, large wine racks lean against the walls, and the dishes of the day are displayed, written in chalk on a blackboard; the restaurant is rustic and welcoming. 

Christophe Rovan, originally an editor from Cantal (central France), talks lovingly about his food. "I've always been a food lover, a gourmand.  I love eating and talking about eating", he laughs.

The warm goat cheese, the garlic butter snails, the fried foie gras, the duck fillet in a green pepper sauce, the bourguignon fondue, the chocolate mousse and the profiteroles are all appetizing. Everything is prepared individually with products brought fresh each morning from the market for everything from the 28 RMB salad of the day, right through to the 275 RMB deep fried camembert.

Other deals included 28 RMB for a trio of sorbets, and 42 RMB for an apple tart with Calvados, and not forgetting the daily set menus (60 RMB and 90 RMB), the dish of the day (45 RMB), and the children's menu (50 RMB).

« Fear of bad food »

Salade Selon humeur du ChefThe menu, designed by French chefs Armand Lafare and Yann Gauthier, is faultless.  This said, other than a culinary journey through such unlikely countries such as Afghanistan or Iran for Armand Lafare, there was nothing to suggest that the two chefs would share the same kitchens in Beijing.  What's more, the two chefs' styles couldn't be more different: one is a vegetarian, the other, an avowed carnivore. 

Fortunately, these differences work well together.  In 2006, Le Café de la Poste, located on the same road as the Lama Temple and one of the capitals most popular French restaurants, became ‘the first eclectic restaurant in Beijing', thanks to a combination of Arnaud Lafare's vegetarian dishes, together with Yann Gauthier's generous trappings of beef.

A one time Parisien editor, Christophe Rovan, moved to Beijing in 2006 to join the duo.  Together, the Café de la Poste team embarked on a culinary adventure.  The eponymous café was followed by the Nanluoguxiang (a Beijing street full of bars) tapas bar 'Salud', and then ‘La Cave', a delicatessen in the neighboring district to La Café de la Poste, right next to La Taverne.





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Super

par oups ! :
ça donne l'eau à la bouche tout ça !

 


"We are partners, and give each other confidence.  But our ability to act is not only trebled - together, the three of us can achieve ten times more than if we were alone" explained Christopher Rovan.  "We are totally honest with each other, and criticize each other openly.  We disagree constantly.  However, once we get it all off our chests, we all do what we have to do, and it works".

Casier a vinLa Taverne stocks twenty odd wines to suit all tastes and wallets.  The cheapest is the 95 RMB White Chinese wine produced by a Frenchman living in Shandong Province (to the south and east of Beijing on the coast).  The most expensive is the Côtes du Beaune 1st Vintage at 860 RMB a bottle.  Carafe wine is 80 RMB for half a litre of white, red and rosé.

The trio opened another establishment in mid-October.  Room 101, a round-the-clock restaurant-bar, offering a simple but tasty dining menu, as well as a range of international breakfasts, and a couple of weekly concerts.  The name of the restaurant comes from George Orwell's ‘1984', where everyone that enters Room 101 meets their most terrifying nightmare.  When Christophe is asked what his worst nightmare is, he replies laughing, "bad food!".


 Text: Aurélie Palancher
Photos: Wang Zhuo
October /2007 

Useful information

La Taverne: Open daily from around 11am and 11.30am until midnight. 
The kitchen is closed from 3pm until 6pm. 7 Gongti Xi Lu, Chaoyang district.
朝阳区工体西路号. Tel : 010-6551-8967

Room 101: 199 Andingmen Neidajie, Dongcheng District. 东城区安定门199号. 
More information is available from La Taverne.

   bouteilles
   carte
   casier a vin

   chaises
   cloche entree
   decor

   entree de la taverne
   magret
   meubles de la terrasse

   patron de la taverne
   salade selon humeur du chef
   salle

   saumon estragon
   terrasse