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Beijing - China

A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987, the Great Wall attracts thousands of tourists every year from China and around the world. Around Beijing, there are four sections of the Wall: Mutianyu, Juyongguan, Simatai and Badaling. The latter is the most reachable and popular. Travel with us to a truly majestic and mystical place. 

 It is said that Badaling is the biggest cemetery in the world, with a worker buried every 10 meters or so under the masonry. It is also said that he who doesn't climb the Great Wall is not a great man.  It is also said that it is the only man made structure visible from the moon. Since its construction many years ago, the Great Wall of China has been at the centre of many debates, and keeps fascinating the crowds.

The proof of the Wall's popularity is that whatever the season, be it the bitterly cold Beijing winter, or the sweltering summer, the crowds keep pouring in to see the World's biggest human construction in terms of length, surface and volume. In Beijing, there are four sections of the Great Wall to visit: Mutianyu, Juyongguan, Simatai and Badaling. The latter is the most accessable hence the most popular. That's where we heading to.  

Located 70 km Northwest of the Chinese capital, Badaling is the best restored section of the Wall, and probably offers the most beautiful scenery. Every day, the Badaling area is assaulted by buses full of tourists and as well as a multitude of other vehicles available for rent. Chinese from all over the country strain to get up the Wall, along with a barrage of Westerners. 

The flood of people is impressive. In an effort not to lose their groups, some tour guide have taken to wearing matching caps, while most others raise their flags as high as they can hold them. Once past the booking office, we finally start to climb the first steps of the Wall. A section of the site is closed to the public; a special delegation accompanies a prestigious guest: Prince Albert of Monaco.

As a result of this royal visitor, it's a real crush on the other side of the Wall. But never mind, it's well worth it. As we progress, the crowds lessen. The uneven steps and their steepness cause people to slow to a shuffle. The view of the surrounding mountains is splendid and photo stops are numerous. These stops are also a good opportunity to take a breather, or to inspect the colourful hawker stalls.

We cross a few watch towers during our ascent of the Wall. "From here, guards sent smoke signals to warn of Mongol attacks", our young Chinese tour guide explains. Eight metres high, the Great Wall played a dissuasive role but never truly managed to stop invaders. 

The trekking along the old stones can take many hours. As we advance, the crowds become even less. The scenery doesn't change much. So we just follow the silhouette of the Great Wall with our eyes. It looks like a snake moving on the limitless mountain ridges. We resign ourselves to head home.

Text: Laurène Mazier
Photos: Wang Zhuo
September 2007