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Beijing - China

Located in north-west of Beijing, the Old Summer Palace (Yuanmingyuan) is less known than his successor and neighbour Yiheyuan. Previously a political center of China, the site offers mostly ruins of palaces and magnificent parks that are well worth a visit.

The Chinese Versailles, The Imperial Gardens, the Gardens of Perfect Clarity: these are some of the nicknames of the Old Summer Palace, or Yuanmingyuan. Located in Haidian in north-west Beijing next to the most prestigious universities of China such as Tsinghua and Beida, the site remains less known than his successor and neighboring New Summer Palace (Yiheyuan), where the empress dowager Cixi resided.

Built in 1707, Yuanmingyuan was the real political centre of China between the 18th and 19th century. For over 150 years, most of the country's affairs were handled by the emperors and their advisers. In view of the ruins left by the British and French troops after the Second Opium War in 1860, it is difficult to believe that a place covering some 3.5 sq km in area, which is five times the size of the Forbidden City and eight times the size of the Vatican, hosted one of the most beautiful sites at the time. Although on the other hand, the beauty of its gardens, lakes and parks have been well preserved.

After the ransacking and burning by the Allied Powers, the place remained abandoned for years. And it is only recently that modest work has been done to try especially to highlight the ruins of ancient palaces of Europe. Because of its white stones and arcade spared by the flames, you could easily make the mistake of believing that the Yuanmingyuan was mostly composed of Western-style buildings. Of the Palace's buildings, 95% were built in the traditional Chinese style and were accompanied by buildings inspired by Tibetan and Mongolian architecture.

For proof, just head down to the tiny pavilion near the main lake Changchunyuan to see a model size representation of the Old Summer Palace. Strolling through the park, the peacefulness is striking and it is not uncommon to see deer and fawns. Far from the roaring city avenues, we willingly wonder around through the three gardens of the Summer Palace filled with lotus covered lakes and punctuated by small green islands that can be reached by boat or pedal boat. Great places for those who want to picnic away from prying eyes.

There are many detours and you can get easily lost, even if several signs in English give some explanations and show the main sites of the Palace. In the end though, it is more pleasant to get lost in the maze of small alleys, just as in the stone labyrinth, which was rebuilt in 80s. Located at the north end of park beside the ruins of European palaces, it recognizes its booth with a rounded roof and is a fun way to finish the tour.

Practical Information:
Old Summer Palace-Yuanmingyuan (圆明园):  Open daily from 7am to 19h. 28 rue Qinghua Xilu, Haidian District.海淀区清华西路28号. Tel: 010.62.62.85.01

Entrance Fees:
Park: 10 RMB.
Maze and ruins European palaces: 15 RMB
Model of the former palace: 10 RMB

Text: Edouard Beauchemin
Photos: Wang Zhuo
May 2008