The Huasheng market, one of old Beijing's cultural centers, hosts a permanent a troupe of wrestlers that provides a quality show. You will be dazzled by a genuine moment of old-style entertainment showcasing exciting demonstrations of force, mast-throws and a very participatory audience.

One Saturday afternoon around 2PM, the imposing Master Shuang and his team are preparing the arena of combat at the main entrance of the Huasheng market, in south-east Beijing. Although they have a brand new covered-gymnasium shaped in a Mongolian yurt, every weekend the wrestlers offer a free outdoor show. Once the mats are positioned correctly, Mr. Shuang gathers the public with his deep and booming voice.

The festivities begin with acrobatic mast-throws, an exercise derived from the traditional culture of the capital. During the Manchu conquest of Beijing in 1644, soldiers from the North proudly wore their emblems on masts. These symbols of military power were only lowered as a sign of accepting defeat.

The slight problem was that Beijing was then completely fortified and the emblems too big for the gates of the city... To solve this dilemma, Manchu soldiers invented the mast-throw, which later became acrobatic discipline unique to Beijing. These masts are received on the shoulder and head and carried with a single finger.

Next up: the demonstrations of physical prowess. One wrestler literally folds a spear into two and pointed into his chest before swallowing and then spitting out a steel ball in front of the dumbfounded crowd. The spectators are now ready for the main room: the fight itself. Mr. Shuang explains "Our techniques are derived from Mongolian fighting but we mix different genres and each fighter has developed his own personal style".

Just Like Children

In the ring, a colossus readies for a fight against a much older and smaller opponent. The teacher gives the signal and the wrestlers get into position. This is much more than just a physical battle, as the confrontation begins with verbal jousts shouted out by the referee: "So Lao Tou [Old Head], are you ready to be destroyed?" Turning to the public, "Look at him, he can barely stand! Lao Tou, what a guy! Ready, fight!"

During the first two rounds, Lao Tou doesn't seem at the top of his game as he waltzes through the air before falling heavily to the ground. Master Shuang couldn't be more pleased and never stops teasing the poor wrestler. The public laughs out loud and shouts out comments. Suddenly, the old fighter wakes out of his slumber and dramatically puts down his imposing opponent. The spectators are delighted: "Go, Lao Tou! You're the best! Punish him!" The small staged fighting works well and everyone laughs, even tourists who don't understand Chinese.

The combatants flow one after the other, each with their style, some move like cats, others as fast as mongooses. Even Master Shuang seems genuinely unshakeable. The elderly, very numerous in the public seem to adore the show, and have fun just like children by intervening regularly. It was as much fun watching the fights as it was watching the crowd, very representative of old Beijing. After an hour of this old-style show, you can discover the market and its little known cultural treasures on its classic tours.

Practical Information:
Fights:
- Outdoor: every weekend 2PM to 3:30PM. Free
- Gymnasium: Monday to Friday from 4PM to 5:30PM if there is enough spectators. Prices: from 60 to 80 RMB. Shilihe Tianjiao Cheng Minsu Wenhua, Chaoyang District.朝阳区十里河天骄民俗文化成. Tel: 010.87.36.33.18
Feel free to go to the show that you pay for as it's richer in acrobatics, and allows the small troupe to get some revenues to continue to exist.
The Huasheng Tianqiao market: Zuo'An Lu, Chaoyang District.朝阳区左安路. Open daily from 8AM to 5PM. Tel: 010. 67.61.72.40 Getting there: No subway nearby. Take a taxi to Shilihe Qiao on the Dong San Huan Nan Lu. It's the second bridge after Panjiayuan Qiao.

Text: Nicolas Sridi
Photos: Wang Zhuo
April 2008