While Chinese contemporary art is literally exploding onto the global scene with Beijing's Dashanzi galleries, the "Made in China" fashion scene is light years from doing so. During the Beijing Fashion Week held from March 25^th to the 31^st, some already talked about a future Paris-Milan-Beijing axis, but there is still a long road ahead.

The prize for the most creative Chinese stylist was awarded this year to Zou You, creator of the women's brand YOU'Z and associate professor at the Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology. Made possible by Asahi Kaisei, this award goes to that same stylist who created the clothing for the Chinese ads for the Japanese textile company in 2007. The back and forth between the sponsor and its protégé has that distinctive Chinese feeling, but, if the talent is there, why not?

Even before admiring the young designer's models, the fashion show gives away its amateurism. Not even past the entrance, the only English-speaking organizer prevents us from entering while several security guards surround us and ask us not to move. A quick glance reveals no other foreign journalists; and the international connotation unravels. After 15 long minutes, a seat finally opens up in the students' area while the Beijing Hotel's imposing banqueting room fills up.

Starting off the show, Zou You unveils his "Bemberg, a Touch of Nature" collection, in tribute of the ecological fiber developed by his sponsor. "I chose "Touch of Nature" because I like nature. Nature is important and I trying to develop a natural style." The designer's words are echoed by the public, a little too much in fact for a fashion show. While in Europe, fashion shows are stages for the public to showcase the latest fashion, Beijing's public wears red lumberjack shirts and flashy tracksuits. The only person to wear the indispensable black sunglasses unfortunately came with her plastic supermarket bag ....

Classical models

Guards rigged out in plain white uniforms to blend in with the scenery checker the podium while baroque music rises gently in the background signaling the imminent start of the show. After two minutes, the disc begins to exhibit some technical malfunctions, but another 5 minutes will painfully go by before someone turns off the strident sounds stuck on repeat. In the following interval of silence, shouts of disputes arise from the wings and are quickly hushed.

The fashion show begins with a succession of models a little too classical and arranged in monochrome clusters: white, violet, black... The cuts are well made though and the clothes seem comfortable to wear. At the same time, it's difficult to imagine that this is the forefront of creativeness and style in 2008's China.

As soon as the show ends, security begins to flush out the hall. Chinese journalists and cameramen flock to the podium, but a cordon of guards hold them back. "Keep moving, the show is finished! Nothing left to see!" is screamed out by the young guards in uniform before starting to move threateningly towards the press. Confusion abound. The Chinese creator leaves the scene without saying a word and the models remain immobile, not knowing what to do.

Security finally relaxes a bit and journalists are able to grab some reactions. All's well that ends well for Zou You and his "Touch of Nature", but Beijing and its Fashion Week is still far cry from the standards of international fashion shows.

Text: Nicolas Sridi
Photos: Wang Zhuo
April 2008