Located on Guijie, the famous restaurant street in the north-east of Beijing, "Food In Novel" offers culinary delights from Yunnan, one of the 22 Chinese provinces.

Refreshing. "Food In Novel" is a good alternative to Chinese cuisine, sometimes derided for seemingly overly rich or fat. Located right in the middle of Guijie, the famous restaurant street in the north-east of Beijing, this establishment offers specialties of Yunnan province (south-west China).

Wooden furniture lends an unpretentious air to the décor. In the centre, a few round tables, decked with yellow tablecloths, stand ready to accommodate small groups, while square tables surround them awaiting the more private occasions. On both sides, clear rattan blinds mark out private compartments surrounded by wooden beams and carved gray tiles.

Some pottery paintings, brown bricks, a large black and white snapshot of life in Yunnan, a calligraphy and cattle horns help give off a minimalist atmosphere. Little natural light penetrates, its progress impeded by a large artificial tree raised in the heart of the restaurant.

Dressed in sky-blue embroidered costumes, the waitresses wear a colorful canvas bag slung over the shoulder. The final touch for a place that is all traditional. At lunchtime, the room is full. And in the middle of the surrounding hubbub, it is not uncommon to hear the male staff singing at the top of their voice while carrying a smoking bowl of soup on the top of their heads.

Authentic Cuisine

But "In Novel Food" has not built its reputation over the past two years on the sophistication of its interior decoration nor that of its dishes. Just on the simplicity and authenticity of its cuisine.

While it might seem that the restaurant has changed direction due to a loss of quality for certain dishes, the house specialties still leap off the pages of the lavishly-illustrated bilingual menu. However, the stamp of new management seems to have affected the rates.

"Food In Novel" is deemed to be the best for its "above the bridge" (guoqiao mixian) rice noodles. It certainly towers over the nearby kiosks seeking to play the same culinary card.

The pure white noodles served in a tasty hot broth and accompanied by fresh cilantro, thin slices of chicken, Yunnan ham, slices of fish, soya, tofu skin and cooked quail eggs deserve their reputation as a cooking tour-de-force.

  If prices can go up to 128 RMB for more sophisticated "guoqiao mixian", tighter budgets will be fully satisfied with the 18 RMB bowl. Another Yunnan specialty not to be missed: baked goat cheese (28 RMB). Carved into rectangles, the slices are then simmered in oil, all whilst avoiding being overly fatty. Some restaurants even add preserved ham, cooked or raw, similar to Bayonne ham.