Located in around ten kilometers to the west of Beijing, the Fragrant Hills are one of the most popular sights in Beijing. Accessible in all seasons, the autumnal colours attract thousands of tourists.
The place is like a dream. Every year, thousands of Beijingers and tourists alike visit the Fragrant Hills (Xiangshan). Located in the mountains to the west of Beijing, this old 160 hectare imperial hunting reserve isn't just known for its flowers, but for the interesting rock formations, which when viewed from a certain angle, looks like a censer with three feet.
Autumn is the most popular season to visit the park. At this time of the year, you can see an influx of visitors, and for one reason - to admire the changing colours of the leaves on the trees, "The Festival of the Red Leaves". In the same way the Chinese like to photograph flowering trees in the spring, this festival is a real event for families. This is all the more understandable in Beijing as a result of it's dry climate, where evergreens cannot survive.
Having gone up a street lined with chestnut sellers, cheap restaurants and souvenir shops, where loudspeakers announce to the passersby what's on offer, you get to the park entrance. On this beautiful October morning, at 10am, the queue at the ticket desk is pretty long, but no one is bad tempered.
It is only once you have passed the park threshold that the ascent of the hill starts. The paths are paved, and
there are metal railings for support. The ascent is slow as you have to adapt to the rhythm of the other walkers; the young, the elderly, couples, groups... the most numerous of the groups, however, are the amateur photographers, easily spotted thanks to their camera slung around their necks, their day bags over their shoulders, and a tripod wedged under their arms. Serious photographers don't break a sweat when leaving the path in order to get the perfect shot of an elusive, red leaf.
This decision was a good one, as once off the main track, the trees did indeed turn a bit more coloured, with reds, yellows and oranges intermingled with various shades of green. This amazingly complimentary range of autumnal colours make a unique stamp on the landscape.
On the way back down the hill, a forty-something year old couple is taking a rest. They were rather disappointed. "This is the first time to come to the Fragrant Hills Park. The came to see the red leaves, but we were expecting better", they complained. "We didn't go all the way to the top though", they admitted. A few weeks later, the leaves are as disspointing as the walkers were. The park is once again left in peace.
Useful Information:
Fragrant Hills Park, Xiangshan (香山公园): Open from 6am until 7pm from April to October, and from 6am until 6.30pm from November to March. Xiangshan Lu, is approximately 10km from Beijing. 香山路. Entrance: 10RMB, 5RMB (student). Tel: 010-6259-1155 or 010-6259-1264
How to get there:
By bus: lines 360, 318, 714, 733, 737, 833 and 904
By taxi: around 30-40 RMB from Xizhimen Station (lines 2 and 13).
Text: David Courbe
Photos: Wang Zhuo
December 2007

Exhibitions :
06 september 09 september
